Despite a rich cheese heritage with some 1500 varieties, France is not the world champion in the matter. A Swiss Gruyère cheese has won the gold medal at the World Championship Cheese Contest, which has just ended in the United States. Roquefort? Reblochon? Brie? One might have thought that given the diversity of its cheese section, France would have an easy time of it at the World Championship Cheese Contest, organized every two years by an American association of producers based in Wisconsin. However, no French specialty is honored on the podium this year at this very serious competition, …