By the time Kismet the horse sets off, Orhan Goller’s bare fingers have already turned blue from the freezing temperatures. But the pure white surroundings and the echo of hooves are enough to delight his customers in eastern Turkey. Between December and March when the ice is sufficiently thick on Cildir Lake, one of the biggest in the Anatolia region, the 19-year-old who lives close by introduces tourists to the area which borders Georgia. “We have 25 centimetres (9.8 inches) today,” he says. “But the thickness can reach 40 centimetres. Some days the temperature falls to -30, -40 Celsius (-22…